PULP@CISHK
Jewelry Collection
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During the Qing Dynasty, Manchu women used to categorize their jewelry into headdresses, necklaces, bracelets, accessories, etc. The jewelry collection in the Jilin Manchu Museum mainly consists of headdresses, including s bian fang, hair sticks, hair pins, coronets, headband, and flower accessories, most worn by ladies-in-waiting. These fascinating accessories, made with gold, silver, jade, pearls, and different types of gems have been crafted with delicacy, using filigree, inlay, and more techniques with Tian-Tsui and wire inlay crafts, making the ladies-in-waiting of the Qing dynasty appear even more noble, elegant, and stunning. These jewelry demonstrate the accomplished skills of craftsmen, at the same time, they show the strict system of hierarchy of the Qing Dynasty.
Gilt-bronze Gemstone Flat-topped Crown with Openwork Double Lions Celebrating Longevity
Gilt-bronze Gemstone Flat-topped Crown with Open-work Double Lions Celebrating Longevity, Qing Dynasty, length 33.8 cm, width 6 cm, thickness 1 cm. The flat-topped crown is made of gilt-bronze and the body is decorated with openwork of the word “寿”, lions, and Panchang knots. One end is inlaid with red gemstones and the other with green gemstones. There are openwork patterns around the body and flower patterns engraved at the head.
Gilt-bronze Gemstone Flat-topped Crown with Open-work Double Lions Celebrating Longevity, Qing Dynasty, length 33.8 cm, width 6 cm, thickness 1 cm.
Tian-tsui Accessories
Tsui, short for Tsui Yu, refers to the feather of kingfishers. Tian-tsui is a traditional craft in China which is made by sticking kingfisher feathers on gold or silver metal bases. Due to the softness of the feathers and their lasting color, Tian-tsui accessories from hundreds of years ago still remain vibrant.
Tian-tsui craftsmanship has been around has a long history in China and has continuously improved, reaching a peak in the era of Emperor Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty. Tian-tsui was owned mostly by the rich in the palace in the Qing Dynasty, but by the end of the Qing Dynasty and the start of the Republic of China period, tian-tsui was popularised among the common people, and women were proud to own them.
There are around 30 Qing Dynasty tian-tsui accessories on display in the Jilin Manchu Museum, such as phoenix coronets, headbands, hairpins, and headdresses, all with varying designs and exquisite craftsmanship. Among them is a jade phoenix coronet inlaid with Tian-tsui, regarded as a national first-class relic.
The crown is named for its adornment with phoenix motifs. The overall framework is made using gilded copper techniques. The decorative patterns on the crown depict 'Two Dragons Playing with a Pearl' and 'Double Phoenixes Facing the Sun'" to "The decorative patterns feature 'Two Dragons Playing with a Pearl' and 'Double Phoenixes Facing the Sun'. The phoenix feathers are accented with sky-blue kingfisher plumage, and Beneath the crown, seven phoenix birds are poised to take flight, each holding a delicate gold chain that hangs down to the forehead, with the end of the chain tied to a 'bat', symbolizing "blessings" in front of the wearer. The entire crown showcases a single-layer combination of auspicious designs, with exquisite craftsmanship that radiates a rich and elegant quality in sunlight. It is classified as a national first-class cultural relic.
The jade phoenix crown with inlaid green tails, from the Qing Dynasty, measures 17.9 cm in height and 29.9 cm in width.
The hairband is constructed from gilded copper plates, shaped like a long strip with slight curvature, lined with red fabric. The main design features two dragons and two phoenixes made of inlaid green tails, with eastern pearls symbolizing fire pearls between them. On either side of the dragons and phoenixes are butterflies inlaid with eastern pearls, and beneath the hairband are 13 strands of pearl chains. This hairband was worn by royal concubines during the Qing Dynasty, serving both to secure hair and as a decorative piece
The jade phoenix hairband with inlaid eastern pearls, also from the Qing Dynasty, measures 47.5 cm in length, 9.5 cm in width, and 9.5 cm in height.
Made of gilded copper, the hairpin has a twisted pattern. One end is needle-shaped, the middle has three hollow rings, and the other end is decorated with a jade shrimp, pearls, and kingfisher feather flowers. Two whiskers end in coral and pearls.
The shrimp symbolizes adaptability, success, and rising prosperity, resembling bamboo joints. The design is vivid, delicate, and auspicious.
Made of copper, the single-needle hairpin has one end gilded, featuring a phoenix and auspicious clouds with kingfisher feathers. The phoenix is adorned with jade and rubies, and its triple-branch tail is decorated with filigree and pearls.
Gilded copper hairpin with jade shrimp, pearls, and kingfisher feathers, Qing Dynasty, 27.4 cm long,
14.9 cm wide.
Gilded copper hairpin with phoenix, jade, pearls, and kingfisher feathers, Qing Dynasty, 29.5 cm long,
10.5 cm wide.
Made of gilded copper, the single-needle hairpin is decorated with a butterfly.
The butterfly is supported by a gilded copper base and embellished with kingfisher feathers. The antennae of the butterfly are engraved with floral patterns.
The hairpin is made of gilded copper with a single-needle structure. The handle is decorated with a three-layer arrangement of butterflies and flowers. Both the butterflies and flowers are supported by a gilded copper base, adorned with kingfisher feathers, and inlaid with three coral beads. The craftsmanship is exquisite, and the design is lively. The butterfly ("蝶diè") shares the same pronunciation as "耋diè" in Chinese, symbolizing longevity and a long life.
Hairpin with coral beads, butterfly, and kingfisher feathers, Qing Dynasty, 12.2 cm long, 6.6 cm wide, 3 cm thick.
Gilded copper hairpin with butterfly and kingfisher feathers, Qing Dynasty, 17.5 cm long, 2 cm wide.
Made of gilded copper, the hairpin has a twisted pattern. One end is needle-shaped, the middle has three hollow rings, and the other end is decorated with a jade shrimp, pearls, and kingfisher feather flowers. Two whiskers end in coral and pearls.
The shrimp symbolizes adaptability, success, and rising prosperity, resembling bamboo joints. The design is vivid, delicate, and auspicious.
The hairpin has two prongs, with a copper-gilt base. The hairpin is decorated with inlaid "囍" (Double Happiness) characters and butterfly motifs. Each end of the hairpin is inlaid with two red gemstones of different sizes. This hairpin was worn by women during their wedding, symbolizing "everlasting happiness".
Gilded copper hairpin with jade shrimp, pearls, and kingfisher feathers, Qing Dynasty, 27.4 cm long, 14.9 cm wide.
Qing dynasty, measuring 16.5cm in length and
5.1cm in width.
Qing dynasty, 12.1cm long, 6.7cm wide.